I love this kit and I suspect it didn't work as well for him as he would have liked because of the way the fuel supply lines were done. This is important if you buy a kit like this. The incoming fuel did not enter into the base of the "T" and hit the wall in the "T", then going equally to both the stock fuel rail and the injector kit. Instead, the extra injectors were branched off of the main fuel line, with the fuel passing across the top of the "T" and heading to the fuel rail (or from the fuel rail), so the accessory injectors were supplied from the base of the "T". Also, his injector bung pipe might have also been a little restrictive, and the injectors were lined up with each other as opposed to being across from each other which might have made a difference in atomization. Just a theory posed by John at JC Sports during the install.

So, we tried figure out where to place the Control Module. I already had the dash storage box full of "stealth" hidden EGT and Boost gauges. The boost controller was in the old ashtray location. The rest of the dash was full with the cassette and CD player. So, we popped apart the console in front of the shifter, and saw all this empty space. That's where it went. I didn't want to cut up the control module, since replacing the interior trim is easier, so I left the mounting brackets that were part of the module untouched. See photo #1 - the control module is at the bottom. This module allows you to set what level of vacuum or boost the injectors kick in at, and how much fuel they deliver (adjust rich/lean under boost).

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Once the module was installed and wired into the car, it was time to work under the hood. We planned to build a fuel injector spacer plate between the TB and the intake manifold. The first thing we knew was that my current 6x18 IC was too big to do this, as it was already only 1/4 - 1/2" off the firewall. So, I swapped it for a smaller IC so someone in the group buy could have the larger 6x18 that he wanted.

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Then, Joel built an injector bung plate out of billet aluminum. See photo #2 - This has the injectors facing each other to improve atomization, but one injector had to be a little higher than the other to clear the throttle cables, while the other side had to clear the PCV valve. This was the first time making one of these, so again I get credit for being the prototype test car - for the legacy IHI kit, for the Torque Chip II, and now the "mass production" injector kit (Dave Scott's 18 PSI wagon got the first injector kit they did, but the injectors are mounted in the water/air intercooler). Another guy, Mark, has his 280cc injectors replaced with 550cc injectors at 12lbs of boost, and uses his AFC to lean it out at the low end, but it wont pass emissions. Anyway, this plate cost a lot, and the final price for more is not set. Expect it to maybe cost $100-$150?

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See it here on the car between the TB and the intake manifold. This also required a spacer block to move the throttle cable bracket back towards the rear of the car. (photo not taken, but you can see at the edge of photo #3). We removed the RRFPR and set aside for another GB turbo kit that is going out soon to ADAMRS, and restored the return fuel line to stock. We also eliminated the engine coolant lines to the throttle body, so we wont be heating it anymore with hot radiator fluid. We planned to do that in advance, and would have been forced to do it anyway with the way things fit.

We ran the wiring for the injectors, and attached the injector mounting plate, fabricated the fuel supply lines, tested fuel pressure and leaks, fixed the backward gasket on the TB etc etc...

Since they now had to do a new turbo to intercooler pipe with the new intercooler, somehow I talked myself into a larger IHI ball bearing turbo upgrade (more on that later). This compressor uses the same up-pipe and down-pipe as the Legacy RHB5 compressor, and is an upgrade compressor, not an OEM. It is not labeled with any model numbers, but it the equivalent to a Garrett T28 turbo which I am told is good for 14 PSI at 7,000 rpm before the thermal efficiency gets worse. I am told he legacy turbo is supposed to be good for 7 PSI at 6,000 before exceeding it's thermal efficiency (hence the 230hp max that Shiv talks about on the legacy turbo). Even with this upgrade, they still got the whole project done in under 18 hours See the finished install below, and you will have a hard time finding the fuel lines and injectors. Very well done. The only glitch is the IC now hits the clutch master cylinder, so they are going to build a remote reservoir for this later.
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Here is the IHI legacy turbo we removed from my car (on the right), next to my new IHI ball bearing compressor (on the left) - burninrubber is the one holding them up, showing no signs of turbo envy... The new one is definitely bigger, and flows better.

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Finally, this is burninrubber showing us that he can't fit his big butt into a Momo seat without it getting stuck... (Brad, yes, these are your seats )

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So, burninrubber (AKA Ham Fist at NASIOC.COM) hops into the back seat for a fun ride, and John is driving, and I am co-pilot calling out EGT's and boost levels as John fiddles with the fuel mixtures. Before we started, he set the knob to deliver about 30% duty cycle on the extra injectors, and for it to kick in at about (-) 2 vacuum (almost atmospheric). We find that the 4lb wastegate lever has too much tension and we don't get under 8 lbs of boost. WOW! Holy MACKERAL!! This is fast! Pulls hard all the way to 6,300 rpm and wants to keep going! No straining above 5,000 rpm like the legacy IHI did at 8-9 pounds with 85 PSI fuel pressure (legacy compressor was pretty smooth at 5-7 PSI though). Spool up was fast, and minimal lag. In 4th gear at 2,500 rpm you hit the gas and it is up to 5 PSI by 2,700 and 8 PSI by 2,800 rpm and about 1 second after hitting the gas.

An RRFPR at fuel pressure over 75psi it may cause the injectors to stick open, so the car can run rich and misfire. Before the SDSEFI system, I was having a little trouble with that as I was trying to go past 6-7 pound of boost - below that it was okay. I could tune the car to pull great from 2,400 to 5,500 rpm, and it would pull to 6,000 but there was no reason to. This mod did shift the power band to 2,800 - 6,300 rpm, but it feels so free to rev and spool it is sick!

The injectors work seamlessly with the stock fuel system, at the normal 43 PSI fuel pressure, and now my stock injectors will never stick open or exceed 80-90% duty cycle. On our test drive the new injectors hit about 35% duty cycle, and once hit 50% duty cycle. John's calculations show we were consuming enough fuel for 250 hp at 6-7 PSI in 5th gear at 5,800 rpm (he was driving not me, so no flames).

We went back and adjusted the wastegate and I can now set the low boost knob for as low a 4-4.5 pounds, and the high boost knob for as low as 6 pounds of boost. Right now I am set at 4lb/8lb for high/low. I ran 9-10 lbs last night without detonation (at 6,000 feet) and today it was warmer and I had to kick down to 8 pounds of boost on 91 octane pump gas (despite adding more fuel). Can't wait to get my prototype ITC finished and installed... That will be a new story.

I was concerned about even fuel distribution and atomization. SDS likes the injectors before the TB for better atomization, or close to the intake valves in a 4 injector kit. But, They do say this can be done after the TB if doing it before the TB is not possible. JCS was sure this would work, and it is the location for some people doing water injection and works well. This after TB position might be more problematic in an inline 4 cylinder motor. The injectors are firing at each other to improve atomization and distribution of fuel, not forwards toward the intake runners - all 4 cylinders should get the same amount. Since my EGT's are on the rear cylinder #3, if the front runners were getting more fuel at least I am not tuning fuel delivery with the rear too lean. I do plan to check all the plugs before the weekend.

The moral of the story - the SDSEFI.com EIC system is loads better than an RRFPR for a MY0/01 turbo (unless all you want is 4-5 pounds of boost). It is 3x more expensive and more trouble to install. It is half as expensive as a link or Haltec ECU, and 1/4 the cost of the TECII setup but not as flexible and has no timing control. I think most of the improvement is the fuel injectors. However, there is a definite improvement in power with the increased cfm of the ball bearing turbo, and 5 PSI with this feels like 7 PSI with the old one. Hope this helps.

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