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Installation instructions are now available for the JC Sports IHI turbo kit installation! Right click Here to download the 5mb ".pdf" file... Or, right click Here to download the 4mb ".doc" file. The pdf file is too large to view in Explorer with Acrobat, and the doc file will load but takes a very long time.
Okay, the car is done, and the instructions total 10 full pages and 160 steps in MS Word, before adding the 143 pictures we took! Some of the steps are actually 2-3 steps combined. I tried to take a digital shot of the car every time we touched it with a tool. I also ran baseline performance tests with a G-tech Pro. All measurements were done on the same road, at 6,000 feet altitude. The 0-60 time was 8.98 sec stock and 8.4 seconds with only a GanzFlow air intake. The quarter mile time was 16.7 seconds @ 84 mph (although the speedo was reading 82 mph in 4th).
Let me start by saying this is not going to be a job for beginners. I especially have no desire to ever do this again! I tried to keep the instructions in layman's terms when possible. If you can afford it, give the instructions to your favorite mechanic along with a blank check and the parts, and give him a couple of days with it.
Joe Cox who developed this kit has a copy of the instructions and has it posted at the JC Sports Website. I did read back every step to John Cox as we did it, and had it proof read twice. Sometimes just picking the right description of the location of a part was a big challenge, but it got done.
The one thing we don't have pictures of, but have an EXCELLENT description of, is the actual connection of the wiring of the boost control chip for MY00 so they can run more than 3psi. The description is more than enough to do this with ease, and we do have pictures of everything else like getting to the ECU, disconnecting it and replacing it. They had already tapped into the ECU for the AFC and a few other things, and it was too difficult to single out the wires.
Anyway, this was basicaly a prototype of the MY00 iClub group buy kit (20 of them were sold). A myriad of things dragged the install out over Friday evening, the next two days and one all nighter on Sunday night (done at 6:00am Monday). One was that Joel Cox, the father of Joe and John in this family operated business, wanted to perfect the kit and try some new designs on the turbo inlet and vaccum chamber. Another reason was that I also did some extra stuff to the car which is not included in the Group Buy kit. And then there was the time lost everytime they were ready to install or remove something and I was trying to get the instructions typed up on the previous step before proceeding. And sometimes the installer was waiting on a part, and other times the part was ready and the installer wasn't. And, they had been so busy that week that a few parts sold out this week and we had to run around to get a few missing parts (this will improve now that Joe is full time). They are keying in inventory into a new database program with reminders to re-order. To make a long story short, we ran out of time for the optional intercooler sprayer (parts were ready) and the optional Risimg rate fuel pressure regulator (aka RRFPR, was not in).
Since nobody in Denver had the rising rate fuel pressure regulator or boost controller in stock the weekend of the install, we went with the with stock wastegate at 5 psi and a standard fuel pressure riser set for 45 psi. And, I had an Apex'i S-AFC to tune the fuel delivery as well (with both a boost gauge and EGT gauge hidden in the closed compartment where a gauge pod would usually go). We also have a larger 6x18 Intercooler and a one piece stainless steel 2.5" one-off custom exhaust, using an Aerospeed "bomb" N1 clone with smaller 4" tip.
It fired up first try, and the ECU learned to idle smooth within 5 minutes. No leaks or anything. We tried the car with a palin fuel pressure regulator initially, at 40 psi per the gauge on the regulator, (but would really like a real fuel pressure and oil pressure gauge in the dash soon). We took it for a few runs and it ran great at 5-7psi right off that bat!
Then we started to screw it up We'd richen it up with the AFC over a few runs till we were up to +20%, and still weren't bogging down as too rich yet. EGT's were staying 1,200 - 1,250 which were perfect for a probe in the up-pipe just ahead of the turbo. And, the car would pull nicely to redline, with a nice kick from 3,300 to 6,000 rpm. But, John and I wanted to tune for the most fuel and power that we could, before bogging down too rich or having EGT's go too low. At that point, we would just back down the AFC settings or fuel pressure.
Basically, we could have let it alone as it was the first test drive! But, we went back to JC Sports and turned up fuel pressure to 60 psi, and tried to tune with the AFC and just made it worse. We planned to lean it out at idle because of the high fuel pressures, but it was bogging down of idle and then again at 5,200 rpm in 1st, but waiting till 5,500 rpm in the rest of the gears to bog down. We kept dropping the AFC from the from the +20%, since fuel pressure was much higher, going lower and lower on the enrichment without helping the bogging. After the third run we triggered a check engine light.
Figuring it was related to the 60 psi fuel pressures or something, we went back to the shop, and noticed it had a loping idle. Unfortunately, I barely had time to have them hook up the laptop and check the OBDII code - an eroneous low manifold pressure warneing! Whew, nothing serious. So, we turned down the fuel pressure to about 45 this time, just a little higher than the first runs. Then he set the AFC for only about 9% enrichment at higher RPM's, with NO leanout at idle and the idle became mirror smooth again.
Since I only had two hours to drive back to Colorado Springs before my wife had to leave for work (I watch the kids during the day), they sent me on my way with a promise to help me tune it later. The main precaution was to listen for detonation, and make no sudden moves on the gas pedal, "take it easy for now" was their motto. On the ride home I noticed it had some detonation with sudden gas pedal movements in 4th and 5th gear only, but not when I would roll on the throttle to full throttle slowly. Yep, 100 mph comes up faster in 5th now than in 4th gear before, but the EGT's above the top of 4th gear wear too hot. Seeing this, I knew a RRFPR was definitely gonna be needed.
All in all this was hard work with great rewards. I initially liked the idea of KISS (keep it simple stupid) and running with the hi-flow fuel pump, RRFPR, 5 psi, 2.5" exhaust and a RRFPR. It seems like that would do nicely. But, I already took the dive into an AFC and found it didn't help much. Sure, I could add more fuel in the midrange, but with the MAP sensor voltage output clamped at 4.5V (so as to not confuse the ECU) the AFC was useless above a certain point.
I drove around for a while, and got it running really well, well enough to make the stock clutch slip!! So, two weeks after the install I had the clutch with 12lb flywheel installed, as well as the RRFPR and Stainless brake lines. This was all definitely worth it, but tuning the RRFPR without a fuel pressure gauge will make you wanna hang by your neck from the rafters by your neck... You have to try a hard full throttle run, get out, pop the hood, adjust the pressure, get back in, try driving again, and repeat the process. And, I still had problems with the AFC not being of much help anywhere but with the midrange power. After the turbo and all the above work, I went out with a borrowed G-tech pro again, and ran two quarter miles with it. The first came back at 14.84 sec @ 95.2 mph, and the opposite direction I ran 14.65 sec @ 97.5 mph (although the speedo was reading 95 mph at 6,000 rpm in 4th at the end of the quarter mile). The 0-60 dropped to 6.22 and 6.24 on two runs. REMEMBER, this is at 6,000 feet altitude and only 5 psi on a small legacy turbo compressor!
So, on Jan 20th '01 we tried one more thing - replacing the AFC with a "JC Sports Torque Chip II" and adding the Blitz electronic boost controller. Wow, what a difference! The torque chip II allows enrichment of the engine as needed, adjusts the fuel to keep the rise in both RPM and Speed over time at it's fastest (like a free reving engine), and flattens the torque curve this way. It watches speed and rpm over time like a road dyno, and maximizes accleration with quick minute adjustments in fuel, and the ECU learns and remembers the fuel requirements faster. We tried 9 psi and it ROCKS, with enough power to take out 2nd gear :-( They got the tranny rebuilt pronto and they spent 3 hours tuning the fuel by the EGT's on the trip to deliver my car to me, and it runs fine now, staying at about 7 psi for now... I do NOT have G-tech times yet with the new setup.
At this point, I have to say how Extraordinary the customer service has been at JC Sports. They did a greta job on the install, the clutch, everything... They have gone beyond the call of duty to rescue me and rebuild my tranny so fast after I blew it the day they installed the boost controller! They have me as a customer for life. ALL my mods except the short shifter came from them, and I am a rolling JC Sports showcase at this point...
I will keep you posted on the status of the instructions and tuning, but with 5psi and fuel pump, there isn't going to be any tuning for you guys. But, wait, you'll get the itch more more juice. I have already found a used accessory fuel injector module with two extra injectors to be installed in Feb 2001. This will replace the RRFPR. Then, there will be water injection to keep the EGT's down with the small turbo I am running. Maybe a programable ECU will be on the list later...
I ordered my exhaust as a full catback from R&E Performance Tuning, AKA SYMS SCOOBY on AOL Instant Messenger, as part of a "group buy" for iClub members. It uses a 2.25" diameter aluminized steel piping painted a matt black, with no resonator on the mid-pipe, and two 76mm stainless steel tips. I now sell these on the Products Page
The March 2000 issue of Sport Compact Car Magazine did a comparison of the Stromung with the JC Sports Exhaust and Scooby Sport Exhaust. They found that the Stromung exhaust gave 5% gains throughout the powerband, without changing the midpipe to the bigger one. The other exhausts gave top end power gains at the expense of the bottom end power. That should translate into about an extra 8 peak HP at the crank.
Turns out that Subaru made some last minute changes to the bolt pattern for the midpipe, and now Stromung is having to weld a mid-pipe just for me and a few others. In the meantime, I installed the muffler only and afterwards went out to test drive it.
Installation Process:
1. First thing I did was use the tire jack that came with the car and a 1" thick board under it, and raised the car as high as it would go to insert a jack stand under the driver's side rear frame n front of the rear tire. I did the same for the other side, making sure it was secure so it wouldn't drop on top of me.
2. After the car was lifted up, I first slipped the muffler's two rear metal hangers out the the rubber mounts that they fit into. I did not need to use any WD40 to loosen things up since the car is so new. I left the metal hanger in the rubber mount at the front of the muffler at this point, to support the weight of the muffler. Pay special attention to the picture here, to see the two rear rubber muffler mounts and the single front rubber muffler mount (near the sway bar where it curves up and back down).
3. I then loosened the two nuts for the bolts holding the muffler to the rear of the midpipe, in front of the rear axle. I left the loose bolts in place to help support the front of the muffler pipe. These bolts were quite tight, and at the angle I was at it was also painful to try this, but they finally loosened.
4. I then wiggled and slipped the last metal hanger out of the rubber mount at the font of the muffler, and pulled the stock muffler off of the lose bolts and threw it away.
5. I then took the Stromung and inserted the two the rear metal hangers into the rubber mounts, then raised the front of the muffler pipe and inserted the the third metal hanger into the rubber mount at the front of the muffler. This front one was the hardest to do, but I used a screwdriver to stretch the rubber mount down to meet the metal hanger.
6. Then I took the gasket that came with the Stromung, and inserted it into the joint between the muffler pipe and midpipe's flanges. I then slid the bolts into place, going through the holes in the gasket that matched the holes in the flange.
7. I didn't have any specs available on Sunday for tightening the bolts, so I used a torque wrench set at 480 ft lbs to tighten the bolts for now. That was still pretty tight. Hopefully not too tight, so I'll check with scooby dealer Monday.
8. Reversed the jacking process and put the car back on all 4 wheels. 
Once this was done, I came inside to start writing this article, but the guy who sold it to me came on-line in a chat and told me to get off my butt and try it out. So I did! My wife even wanted to go with me. I started it up and right away I loved the way it sounded, and while I'm soaking it all up, my wife is rolling her eyes and saying, "why did I ever let you do this to a perfectly fine car?"
Imprezzions:
First impression about the sound was, "this is gonna be loud". It was kind of a low-pitch deep resonating sound throughout the whole car. However, after the engine settled down, it was extremely quiet at idle. But, blip the throttle and yep, sounds loud. So, we took of for a slow drive down the hill, to get out of the neighborhood, and at 3,000rpm in 3rd gear down the hill it was a little boomy. Once we're out of the neighborhood I let her rip, and was surprised that it get's quieter once I'm over 4,000 rpm. No raspy bumble bee sound, just a smooth deep sound. Driving down the highway at under 75mph and it seems a little intrusive; but go over 75mph and it isn't too bad, until you back off on the gas to coast down a little. Then it get's a little boomy again, just like between 2,000 rpm and 3,500 rpm. It does make listening to music quietly a little less satisfying, since it sounds like an "out of key" subwoofer. So far the dash IS NOT buzzing yet.
As far as performance, in combination with my custom cold air intake, I could see no difference below 4,000 rpm - not worse nor better. However, from 4,000 - 6,200 rpm, it seemed to pull a little better in the first three gears. Didn't seem to make a difference above 75mph in 4th or 5th gear. My custom cold-air intake with stock air filter made about this much increase in power, but the AMSOIL air filter made the biggest difference in my "seat of the pants HP meter". My 2.25" midpipe made by Midas Muffler the next week made an additional improvement in top end power in 4th and 5th gear.
As far as fit and finish are concerned, this seems to built about as well as anything out there. I would have preferred a stainless unit, but the matt black paint is not that bad. And the $110 I saved I saved on this unit was enough to cover the new midpipe.
At 6,000 feet above sea-level, we lose 3% of our power per 1,000 feet elevation. That's a total of 18% power loss vs sea-level, dropping from 165 to about 140hp. All I want is to regain factory power of 165hp at the crank. My understanding from Sport Compact Car magazine was that they achieved a 5% gain with the exhaust, and an additional 15% gain with the intake on top of the exhaust. So, I should be right in the ballpark of 185 - 195hp at the crank at sea-level, and at stock HP at this "mile-high" altitude.
See this speedo? This is what an RS with my mods can do, even at 6,000 feet above sea-level!
I figured that since the exhaust was 2.25" and the 2.5" PVC intake's internal diameter was only 2.0" that we still might have some restriction on airflow remaining in this setup. The problem was finding affordable aluminum tubing. I first went to RMC Performance in Colorado Springs (Academy and Astrozon) where I was previously shown some polished aluminum u-bend they wanted to sell me for $40. This would be enough for the 60 degree bend on three intakes! I then found out that the salesperson who tried to sell it to me was actually trying to sell me a very expensive piece off a turbo kit (from the Yellow CRX reviewed in a recent SCC magazine article), and that he no longer worked there - for obvious reasons.
At the recommendation of Paul Brizal (PunkRS on iClub), I next went to Spectrum Motorsports in Colorado Springs, just south of Austin Bluffs on the west side of Academy Blvd. While they were very helpful, unfortunately the pre-polished aluminum tubing to build a two peice intake could cost me as much as $85 there. I figured most of the cost was in the polishing process, which I could do myself. Well, Paul worked wonders and found a source for tubing, Burns Stainless, at about half the cost of Spectrum per intake (I have to buy enough for three at a time to be cost effective, however).
When the tubing arrived, Paul cut the ubend into what was very close to three 60 degree bends, where two of the bends had 4" legs, but the middle piece was very short. With only 3 feet of straight aluminum tubing on hand, the third intake was 4-6" too short! Bummer... Anyway, we then found that the cut angle was slightly less than 60 degrees, and the tubing was angled too far forward. This was solved by filing the airbox end of the aluminum down a degree or two to fit the rear hole properly. We then pulled out the simichrome metal polish and terry-cloth towels, and worked up some arm cramps for 30 minutes to shine them up, but it was worth it. Everything installed like a champ. He left and I unhooked the battery to reset the ECU.
Later I obtained special order tubing to my specifications to allow us to make and sell once piece intakes like this one below. I have to order 40 at a time for these one piece intakes! This is a picture below of Version 4 we are selling...
After resetting the ECU, we noticed a noticeable improvement in power throughout the entire powerband. We have no dyno testing, however we can compare known performance figures. Top speed stock is reported as 127 mph by Sport Compact Car agazine, while an HKS 4 psi turbo RS did 135 mph. Here a comparison of top speeds reported to me with my intake; stock vs with intake mods and exhaust.
Stock - 120 mph down hill at 6,000 feet above sea-level at 5,350 rpm. With a 2" PVC Intake Mod and Stromung 2.25" exhaust - 123 mph flat ground at 6,000 feet at 5,500 rpm. With this 2.5" Aluminum Intake Mod and Stromung - 132 mph flat ground at 6,000 feet at 5,850 rpm. A 12mph gain in top speed is significant, especially for those of us living at high altitude. One member of the iClub with this intake and an exhaust took a trip from Colorado to Kansas and hit 6,000 rpm at 134 mph with his RS! I don't advocate driving at these speeds, but they are good examples of the power gains obtained with fast cold air rushing into the air vent in the right inner fender.
Compared to the stock intake, there is NO comparison! This pulls much better.
You can find more info about these intakes, with positive reviews and feedback from dozens of customers at the old i-Club advertisement or the cuurent ad at Larry's intakes for sale on i-Club. Return to Top
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